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« em: 26 de Novembro de 2015, 06:23:28 »

Chic thrills

PATIENCE used to be considered a virtue. But you don't like to be kept waiting, do you? You want all the fizz of high fashion, and you want it now. This, at least, is what most mainstream retailers have come to believe, which helps explain why interpretations of hot catwalk looks now hit our high street stores before the designer originals have even left the factory, and why, in certain significant instances, such stores actually lead rather than follow fashion.

Fast fashion has become a 21st century retailing phenomenon, as ever increasing numbers of chain stores race to deliver definitive, on trend looks in cost effective clothing. Now, whenever John Galliano or Donatella Versace come to London, the store they most especially want to check out is the Topshop flagship at Oxford Circus. When multi platinum selling music stars such as Beyonc Knowles are in the capital, they're just as likely to snap up some 29.99 treasures from River Island as they are to flex the Amex at Gucci or Ungaro.

Kate Thornton, the presenter who memorably struggled to police the small screen antipathy between The X Factor's Sharon Osbourne and Simon Cowell, scours high street chains as well as the hot Paris label Chlo and the British designer Alice Temperley for the pretty chiffon dresses that have become her signature style. And you would be truly astonished at how many fashion industry insiders pick up chic thrills from George at Asda.

But there's much more to the appeal of fast fashion than the opportunity to bag a bargain. There's kudos in finding a great fashion look at a modest price and without the obvious pointer of a flashy designer label. Rather than some sort of shameful activity, only to be undertaken in heavy disguise or under cover of darkness, a successful spot of fast fashion shopping is now considered something to boast about, all of which explains why so many supermodels and celebrities feel far from compromised when pictured leaving H or New Look burdened with evidence of their patronage.

Indeed, perceptions of what constitutes a good fashion look have changed. There is now perceived to be something inherently uncool about a wardrobe composed entirely of the latest designer finery from the runways of Paris and Milan. Seriously stylish women follow the example of Kate Moss or Sienna Miller, and make room for vintage thrift shop finds and fast fashion buys amidst each new season's must haves from Prada or Marc Jacobs. Today's most influential fashion icons suggest true chic is achieved in astutely judged juxtapositions of all three elements: vintage, disposable and luxurious.

It used to be that the great couturiers would present their diktats on silhouette and hem length, and, as much as half a decade later, a little of their influence would trickle down to reshape mainstream fashion. These days, in contrast, fashion trends emanate from a diverse range of sources.

Clever retailers understand the power and influence of hit television shows. Whereas Dallas and Dynasty may have shaped fashion aspirations throughout the 1980s, productions such as Sex and the City and The OC have created tangible consumer demand in these first years of the new century. Countless young women have longed to emulate Carrie Bradshaw's adventurous taste. Now, hot on that character's vertiginous heels, equal numbers want to match Marisa Cooper's youthful, sexy elegance. And a host of high street names are dedicating their energy to making this entirely feasible.

Although the public may ooh and aah over dresses worn on the red carpet by Nicole Kidman or Cate Blanchett, very few ordinary women ever have the opportunity to emulate Oscar night glamour. The stars of soap operas more readily inspire imitation, especially now that today's celebrity magazines are full of pictures of them at rest and play. Vogue may remain the fashionista's bible, but you have to wonder whether Heat exerts a greater influence on the way women dress. Adventurous fashion looks, like the new season's baggy, rolled up trousers, are more likely to succeed as a trend if seen on a popular personality than on an impossibly beautiful supermodel.

Wherever they shop, women (and men too) are certainly much more likely than ever to find their options shaped and edited by prevailing trends. And that, it seems, is the way we like it. At the time of his appointment as chief executive of Marks Spencer last summer, Stuart Rose described the beleaguered company's stores as "a bit boring". In the spiralling competitiveness of today's mainstream fashion sector, it's no longer enough to produce serviceable clothes. Even at Marks, it seems, the consumer demands sparks.

Next prides itself on providing contemporary rather than cutting edge fashion. Yet its current chief executive, Simon cheap women's bailey button ugg boots grey Wolfson, blamed the chain's slightly disappointing pre Christmas trading performance on the fact that it had missed a couple of key trends.

Fashion has always been a process of insinuating obsolescence   of making you feel that your once favourite skirt is now too short or too long to wear, or convincing you that it would be unthinkable to venture out in last year's hottest colour now that white is supposed to be the new black. But today's most exciting trends tend to erupt, rather than trickle down; they come and go with dizzying alacrity. They don't necessarily arrive at the start of a new season or endure until its end. Retailers can just as readily find themselves commercially compromised by underestimating the longevity that some trends achieve   the enduring popularity of Ugg boots provides a particularly splendid example. But, in fashion, late is most certainly never better than, well, never. Apposite timing is crucial.

Yet, there is an inherent irony in the term 'fast fashion', because, in reality, there is nothing especially fast about this type of attire. Offshore production in far flung corners of the world has become the key to the low pricing of high street or supermarket apparel, which means mass market fashion retailers have to cope with very long lead times.

Alison Thorne, the trading director of Asda's hugely successful George brand, paints a typical picture of the process. "Our design team starts to look at trends nine to 12 months ahead. Cloth, fabric and print commitments are the first to be made, then actual product commitments are placed at the right times for production and freight lead times."

Her team does add some of the brand's feistier high fashion elements later. "We have the capacity," Thorne explains, "to get new trends into the stores every four to six weeks." But she's talking about frequency of delivery, rather than total response time; although the latter can sometimes be accelerated, it inevitably takes several months rather than a few weeks to complete the process of having a garment designed, manufactured offshore, freighted back to Britain and delivered to the sales floor.

Given this disadvantage, mass market retailers have to be every bit as aware as any cutting edge designer of the tendencies and nuances most likely to indicate fashion's next big looks. Some enlist the help of freelance 'cool hunters' such as Mary Anne Cohen, who attempt to divine the moods, inspirations and ideas that will form the most significant stylistic influences of the future. "My job is looking at what the edgiest kids are getting into," Cohen explains.

"I look at the kind of bars they're hanging out in, the type of music they're listening to, the movies they're watching, the clothes they're wearing and, much more importantly, how UGGS Clearance they're putting those clothes together. My clients need to work out what everyone will be into in a couple of years' time, and the clues are there in what the cool kids are doing right now."

No fashion look becomes a trend, of course, unless it is widely adopted. But you might wonder why so many different designers, fashion brands and chain stores all seem to come up with the same ideas at the same time. You may marvel that sorbet pastels appear to be the ubiquitous palette in menswear this spring, appearing everywhere from Armani to Zara. And why, you may well ask, should ethnic influences pervade this season's womenswear, from Dorothy Perkins to D

The answer lies in universality of experience   plus the fact that fashion designers at every level, from high street to haute couture, are in pursuit of the same thing: clothing that captures the zeitgeist. In our ever shrinking world, staff in the design studio of every mass market retailer are clearly susceptible to the same references and influences as the people women ugg classic tall boots 5815 chestnut mens ugg boots black classic short  who work for major designers. Creative teams at Miss Selfridge or Topshop are every bit as likely to have photographs of Gwen Stefani on the wall as are their counterparts at Dior. Whether you work for the Japanese designer Junya Watanabe or the British chain Warehouse, you're equally likely to be listening to music by Franz Ferdinand and Scissor Sisters. At the same time, perceptions of what constitutes a good fashion look have changed, and there's no particular reason why the zeitgeist is any less likely to be captured by a cheap chain store camisole than a spectacular piece of designer finery. Original ideas and imagination are no longer the preserve of haute couture. The best fast fashion has an energy and dynamism all its own.

Clothes on sale at major high street chains are certainly less luxurious than almost anything sporting a designer label. More likely than not, they will have been manufactured at minimum cost in the Third World, rather than lovingly stitched by nimble fingers in a Paris atelier. But that doesn't necessarily mean that they are any the poorer in terms of design. In fact, although many fast fashion clothes border on the disposable, their ratio of fashion content to price point is invariably astounding.

This is because the smartest fast fashion retailers invest heavily in finding design talent that can ensure their studios harbour an exceptional level of creative expertise. Gap, for example, recently recruited several key members of Marc Jacobs' New York team to kick start its recovery. The contribution of these experienced taste makers has been evident since deliveries of their cute tweed jackets and pretty camisoles first hit Gap branches last autumn.

But in fashion design, youthful energy is often just as valuable as experience or track record. As sponsor of a prize for best collection at Graduate Fashion Week, Topshop has long been a key force in encouraging emerging design talent. Henceforth, River Island's support for this same showcase will include opportunities for outstanding graduates to join its vibrant design team.

According to Robert Gillan, head of fashion at Edinburgh College of Art, the experience of working on fast fashion for a mass market retailer can prove invaluable. "Designing for the likes of Topshop," he suggests, "is probably as constructive a step in any career trajectory as a spell working for a luxury label. The pace at which these studios operate and the quality of their design output is remarkable."

Many fashion chains also forge partnerships with established designers, who can capitalise on those very low manufacturing costs to bring their distinctive design signature within reach of budget conscious shoppers   and earn a nice fat royalty for their troubles. The resulting lines are sometimes closer to fashion lite than fast fashion. Yet, Debenhams has built a substantial business in its portfolio of mini collections from names such as Jasper Conran and John Rocha. In the recent past, Luella Bartley has designed a line for New Look, Clements Ribeiro has created capsules for Dorothy Perkins and the Allders department store group, while Sophia Kokosalaki, Hussein Chalayan and the veteran British maverick Zandra Rhodes have all designed ranges for Topshop.

None of these, though, can match the phenomenal success of the range that Karl Lagerfeld recently designed for H Given that it had completely sold out at most of the chain's stores within four hours of its launch, this could be considered the ultimate example of fast fashion. But you may not see its like again. Furious that H manufactured his precious designs in sizes 14 and 16, the newly emaciated Chanel guru has vowed never to repeat the project. Which may be enough to try any woman's patience.

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